FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER PROJECT

KIPS

FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER FITTING GUIDE
FROM START TO FINISH

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HI ALL,
I'm running the group buy for the classic front mount inter cooler supplied by bren@apex, I'm going to be writing the project in stages so will add to this by editing.
My spelling ain't that great so any wannabe school teachers practice else were

Please note this is a My93 WRX and this is a guide of how i did it so not held responsible for any mistakes if you care to use the guide

STAGE 1 LIGHTS AND FRONT BUMPER REMOVAL

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TOOLS NEEDED FOR BUMPER/LIGHTS REMOVAL
1, 10MM SPANNER/SOCKET
2, 17MM SPANNER/SOCKET
3, PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER
4, FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER
5, CONTAINER FOR BOLTS AND SUNDRIES
6, TORX SOCKET FOR No PLATE NOTE THIS IS A SECURITY TORX HAS HOLE IN IT (I DRILLED MINE OUT AS NOT USING No PLATE FIXING)
1 TEA LADY FOR CONSTANT CUPPAS

FIRST OF ALL I REMOVED THE FRONT GRILL 2 CLIPS IN THE TOP I USED A SMALL SCREWDRIVER TO PUSH DOWN THE CENTERS AND GENTLY PULLED.
THEIR ARE 2 LOCATING LUGS WHICH JUST PUSH INTO RUBBER GROMMETS EITHER SIDE OF THE BONNET CATCH ONCE ALL RELEASED GENTLY PULL UP
AND PUT TO THE SIDE




UNDO THE PHILIPS SCREW ON TOP OF THE HEADLIGHT THIS HOLDS THE SIDELIGHT AND GENTLY EASE OUT AND UNDO THE CLIP ON THE WIRE OR TAKE THE BULB HOLDER OUT.




YOU CAN NOW SEE THE HEADLAMP BOLTS THESE ARE 10MM THEIR ARE 2 TO THE CENTER AND 2 TO THE SIDE REMOVE HEADLAMP BULB CONNECTOR THEN UNDO THE 4 BOLTS AND EASE OUT AND PLACE TO ONE SIDE
REPEAT FOR OPPOSITE SIDE


FOG LIGHTS ARE HELD IN BY 3 10mm BOLTS THIS WILL ALSO RELEASE THE INDICATOR REPEAT FOR OPPOSITE SIDE PLACE TO ONE SIDE SAFELY



UNDER ARCHES THEIR ARE THE BRAKE COOLING DUCTS THESE ARE HELD IN BUY 1 x 10mm AND 3 PLASTIC CLIPS PUSH THE CENTER OF THE CLIP IN NOT TO FAR OR THEY WILL FALL OUT IF THEY DO JUST PUSH BACK IN THE FRONT
ONCE THESE ARE OUT THE WAY YOU WILL SEE THE 2 X 10mm BOLTS THAT HOLD THE BUMPER AT THE SIDE



NOW LOOK ALONG THE TOP OFF THE BUMPER YOU WILL SEE ? x 17mm BOLT WITH A PHILLIPS CENTER UNDO THESE, UNDERNEATH THE BUMPER THEIR ARE 3 X 10mm BOLTS REMOVE THESE, WERE THE FOG LIGHT HOLES ARE IF YOU FEEL INSIDE TO THE TOP THEIR IS A 10mm BOLT HIDDEN UP THEIR UNDO THESE
THE NEXT BIT I DRILLED OUT THE SECURITY TORX BOLTS AS I DIDN'T HAVE A TORX WITH A HOLE IN THE END THINK THE TORX IS A 32?
THE BUMPER SHOULD NOW PULL FORWARD LEAVING THE BUMPER BAR BEHIND




TO TAKE THE BUMPER BAR OFF IF YOU LOOK IN LINE OF THE CHASSIS RAIL THEIR ARE 2 X 17mm BOLTS EACH SIDE UNDO THESE AND SLIDE THE BUMPER BAR OUT



YOU SHOULD NOW BE LEFT WITH SOMETHING THAT LOOKS LIKE THIS READY FOR THE NEXT STAGE


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STAGE 2 O/S/F WING REMOVAL

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THIS ISN'T NECESSARY BUT MAKES CUTTING THE HOLE IN THE INNER WING EASY

TOOLS NEEDED

1,10mm SPANNER/SOCKET
2,PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER
3,DOOR TRIM STUD REMOVAL TOOL
4,STANLEY BLADE
5, JACK

FIRST OF ALL I JACKED THE CAR UP TO REMOVE ARCH GUARD THIS HAS
2 x 10mm AND FOUR /FIVE PLASTIC CLIPS EASY TO SPOT
ONCE REMOVED I THEN STARTED TO TAKE OFF FRONT SPLASH GUARD AND SIDE SILL AGAIN ALL 10mm BOLTS THE SPLASH GUARD AT THE TOP IS HELD ON WITH DOUBLE SIDED TAPE GENTLY PULL AWAY FROM BODY AND CUT WITH A BLADE CAREFUL NOT TO CUT INTO PANEL THE SPLASH GUARD IS ALSO HELD TO THE SIDE SILL WITH DOUBLE SIDED TAPE BUT YOU CAN LEAVE THIS AS IT WILL COME OFF AS ONE WITH THE SILL
THE SIDE SILL HAS FOUR HIDDEN PUSH CLIPS THESE BRAKE EASY SO USED A TRIM REMOVAL TOOL THEY POP OUT WARDS


ONCE THIS WAS OFF YOU CAN NOW SEE ALL THE BOLTS THAT HOLD THE WING ON THESE ARE ALL 10mm ALONG THE TOP OFF THE WING INSIDE THE DOOR SHUT AND AT THE SIDE OF WERE THE HEADLAMP WAS AND ONE AT THE BOTTOM I ALSO UNDONE THE AIR RESONATOR BOX AS THIS COMES OFF AS WELL AGAIN 10mm ONCE ALL BOLTS REMOVED THE WING JUST LIFTS OFF



ONCE WING IS REMOVED YOU SHOULD END UP WITH THIS HAD A BIT OF A WASH DOWN WHILE I HAD THE CHANCE WAS QUITE PLEASED HOW CLEAN IT WAS UNDER THEIR


]

STAGE 3 INTER COOLER REMOVAL

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TOOLS NEEDED

1, 12mm SPANNER/SOCKET
2, FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER

THIS WONT TAKE LONG UNDO ALL 3 12mm BOLTS AS IN PIC THEN UNDO THE JUBILEE CLIPS ON THROTTLE BODY, TURBO AND DUMP VALVE THEN JUST EASE PIPES OFF AND LIFT INTER COOLER OUT
JOB DONE


WHILE I HAD THE SPANNERS OUT I ALSO TOOK ALL THE BRACKETS OFF AS WELL ALL WERE HELD WITH 12mm BOLTS 2 FOR EACH BRACKET

STAGE 4 APEXI AIR FILTER REMOVAL

TOOLS NEEDED

1, 10mm SPANNER/SOCKET
2, FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER
3,PLIERS FOR HOSE CLIPS

WILL TRY AND ADD A STD AIR FILTER SYSTEM ASWELL

FIRST UN CLIP THE MAF SENSOR CONNECTION THEN UNDO THE FOUR 10mm BOLTS HOLDING THE APEXI CONE TAKE OFF CONE THEN DISCONNECT ALL HOSES FROM UNIT AND UNDO THE JUBILEE CLIPS AS SHOWN IN PICTURE THEN REMOVE AND PLACE ALL TO ONE SIDE

STAGE 5 DOWN PIPE AND TURBO WRAP

TOOLS NEEDED

1, 12mm SPANNER/SOCKET
2, SNIPS
3, SCISSORS
4, PLIERS
5, JACK
6, 2" X 25' EXHAUST WRAP
7, STEALTH TURBO JACKET
8, 12 X STAINLESS STEEL TIES

FIRST OF ALL I REMOVED THE METAL HEAT SHEILD THEN TOOK OFF THE ACTUATOR 2X 12mm BOLTS AND SPRING CLIP HOLDING THE ARM
TO MAKE THINGS EASIER




I WRAPPED THE DOWN PIPE FIRST THIS WAS LIKE WRESTLING A SNAKE JACK THE CAR UP SO YOU CAN WORK FROM UNDERNEATH AS WELL THIS WILL MAKE IT EASIER


USE THE STAINLESS STEEL TIES APPROX 8" APART TO HOLD WRAP FIRM

NEXT I FITTED THE STEALTH TURBO JACKET I THREADED THE SUPPLIED STAINLESS TIES IN A STITCH FASHION THEN CUT A HOLE FOR THE WASTE GATE ARM TO COME THROUGH WRAPPED THE JACKET AROUND THE TURBO AND PULLED THE TIES TO SECURE THIS TAKES A BIT OF TIME AND PATIENCE TO DO.I THEN REFITTED THE METAL HEAT SHEILD ON TOP FOR EXTRA HEAT PROTECTION

STAGE 6 PREPARE AND REFIT AND MARK BUMPER BAR FOR DRILLING

TOOLS NEEDED

1, 17mm SPANNER/SOCKET
2, DRILL
3,4mm AND8mm DRILL BITS
4, CENTER PUNCH
4,TAPE MEASURE
5, MARKER PEN

FIRST DRILL OUT THE FOUR SPOT WELDS HOLDING THE No PLATE BRACKET AND REMOVE FROM BUMPER BAR,

THEN BOLT THE BUMPER BAR BACK ON USING THE FOUR 17mm BOLTS TRY AND GET BACK IN SAME PLACE AS WHEN TAKEN OFF.
FIND YOUR CENTERER POINT OF THE BUMPER BAR ON MINE THEIR WAS A CAPTIVE BOLT HOLE THAT HOLDS THE BUMPER TO THE BUMPER BAR. MEASURE OUT 250mm FROM THIS POINT BOTH WAYS AND MARK WITH A LINE THEN MEASURE IN 25mm FROM THE EDGE AND THIS WILL GIVE YOU YOUR CENTERER POINT FOR DRILLING MARK CENTER WITH A PUNCH THEN DRILL A PILOT HOLE 4mm THEN GO THROUGH WITH YOUR 8mm DRILL THESE ARE THE HOLES THAT WILL BOLT YOUR INTERCOOLER TO THE BUMPER BAR SEE PIC FOR MARKING DIAGRAM


REMOVE CENTRE BRACKET AT BOTTOM 10mm SOCKET/SPANNER/PHILLIPS



AUTOBAHN 88 FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER SUPPLIED BY BREN AT APEX PERFORMANCE PARTS

STAGE 7 RECERC DV FITTING

TOOLS NEEDED

1, 12mm SPANNER/SOCKET
2, L BRACKETS FROM B/Q
3,STI/WRX NEW AGE DV CONVERTED BY DA ONE
4,RECERC DV ADAPTER SUPPLIED BY DA ONE



I SENT MY STI 8 RECERC DV OFF TO DA ONE TO GET IT CONVERTED SO I COULD RUN THE PIPE TO THE ORIGINAL FITTING AND ALSO HAD A ADAPTER MADE TO THE SAME SIZE AS THE FRONT MOUNT DV OUTLET SO I COULD RUN ONE SINGLE SIZE PIPES TO CONNECT
FIND A PLACE TO MOUNT THE DV SECURELY I FOUND THE BEST PLACE WAS AT THE BACK IN THE MIDDLE BOLT THE RECERC TO THE DV ADAPTER WITH A NEW GASKET THEN GET THE L BRACKETS AND BEND INTO SHAPE SO THEY LINE UP WITH THE CAPTIVE NUTS ALREADY THEIR THE BEND TO SHAPE TO FIT TO THE 2 BOLTS HOLDING THE ADAPTER TO THE DV TIGHTEN DOWN AND ADJUST SO IT SITS CENTRAL

STAGE 8 FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER AND PIPE WORK FITTING

TOOLS NEEDED

1,13mm SPANNER/SOCKET
2,10mm SPANNER/SOCKET
3,HACKSAW
4,FILE
5,TIN SNIPS
6,PLIERS
7,DRILL/DRILL BIT
8,MARKER PEN
9,RULER




FIRST OF ALL TAKE THE RIGHT HAND SIDE PIPE AND OFFER UP AGAINST THE TURBO AND CHECK FOR CLEARANCE YOU WILL FIND IT WILL RUN CLOSE TO THE METAL BRAKE PIPES BY THE MASTER CYLINDER, WHEN YOU LOOK AT THE TURBO END YOU WILL SEE A GAP AND THE PIPE RUNS VERY TIGHT AGAINST THE THROTTLE BODY SO I CUT THE PIPE AND FILED IT SO IT SAT FLUSH AGAINST THE TURBO THIS ALSO GAVE A BIT OF CLEARANCE BY THE THROTTLE BODY AND THE METAL BRAKE PIPES.
MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN ALL FILINGS OUT OF PIPE BEFORE OFFERING IT UP AGAIN


NEXT BOLT THE FRONT MOUNT TO THE BUMPER BAR THROUGH THE TWO HOLES PREVIOUSLY DRILLED MAKE NOTE WHICH WAY ROUND YOU FIT THE INTERCOOLER SO IF YOU TAKE OFF IT WILL GO BACK THE SAME WAY ROUND





NOW IF YOU OFFER UP THE SECOND RIGHT HAND PIPE YOU CAN ROUGHLY SEE WHAT NEEDS TO BE REMOVED TO STOP THE PIPE FROM FOULING THE BODY,CUT TO FIRST LINE THEN BEND BACK TO SECOND LINE TO GIVE THE PANEL SOME STRENGTH BACK AT THE BOTTOM TRIM TO BLACK LINE THE BEND DOWN


YOU THEN HAVE TO MARK THE INNER WING FOR CUTTING THE HOLE TO LET THE PIPE THROUGH IF YOU FOLLOW THE HOLES ON THE PICTURE YOU WILL GET AN IDEA OF WHERE NEEDS TO BE CUT, I DRILLED A HOLE THEN SLOWLY CUT AWAY THE PANEL WITH A JIGSAW AND TINSNIPS THEN FILED INCREASING IN SIZE TILL I GOT IT RIGHT JUST ENOUGH TO PUT HE PIPE THROUGH WITH SOME PROTECTIVE EDGING TO STOP ANY WEAR ON THE PIPE SHOULD IT TOUCH THROUGH ENGINE MOVMENT


GIVE THE BARE EDGES LEFT FROM CUTTING SOME METAL PRIMER TO STOP ANY RUST FORMING, THEN COVER THE EDGE WITH SOME FORM OF PROTECTIVE EDGING SEE PICS BELOW



OFFER THE PIPE THROUGH THE HOLE AND ADJUST TO GET THE BEST FIT YOU WANT TO HAVE A GAP ARROUND THE PIPE AND ALSO WERE IT RUNS DOWN TO THE INTERCOOLER, YOU CAN ALSO PULL AWAY SLIGHTLY FROM THE BRAKE PIPES THEN BOLT UP WITH THE CLAMPS TO HOLD IN PLACE


NOW TAKE THE LEFT HAND TOP PIPE AND LAY OVER ENGINE SO YOU CAN SEE ROUGHLY WERE IT GOES THEN THREAD UNDER PIPES AND AROUND OIL FILLER WHEN I DONE THIS IT WAS JUST TO TIGHT TO THE OIL FILLER AND WAS OUT OF LINE TO BE ABLE TO JOIN THE SECOND PIPE SO I CUT THE PIPE UP FROM THE BEND ON THE PIC AND REPLACED WITH A PIECE OF SILICON HOSE WHICH ALLOWED ME TO SWIVEL THE END ROUND AND GET A LITTLE MORE LENGTH TO CLEAR THE CAM COVER AS YOU SWIVEL THE PIPE IT ALSO TAKES IT AWAY FROM THE OIL FILLER TO LEAVE MORE CLEARANCE



OFFER UP SECOND LEFT PIPE AND YOU WILL SEE THAT SOME MORE TRIMMING IS NEEDED AGAIN CUT TO FIRST LINE THEN BEND BACK TO SECOND LINE YOU MAY HAVE TO ALSO NEED TRIM AND BEND BACK A SMALL SECTION INSIDE THE WING JUST ABOVE THE TOW HITCH


YOU HAVE NOW INSTALED THE MAIN PART OF THE FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER JUST THE DV TO PLUMB IN DEPENDING ON THE TYPE YOU ARE USING YOU SHOULD HAVE SOMETHING THAT LOOKS LIKE THIS




FITTED THE APEX INDUCTION KIT AND A SHIELD TO TRY AND KEEP THE AREA COOL WILL BE ADDING SOME THERMAL HEAT SHEILD TO THIS ASWELL



TOOLS NEEDED

1,DREMMEL WITH CUTTING BLADE
2,STANLEY KNIFE
3,MARKER PEN
4,RULER

FIRST OF ALL I MARKED 10mm MARKS FROM THE FRONT OF THE BLACK GRILL PART ALL THE WAY ACROSS FROM BACK TO FRONT, THEN MARKED 10cm MARKS FROM SIDE TO SIDE THEN CAREFULLY CUT OUT THE BLACK GRILL SECTION AS I INTEND TO TRY TO REFIT THIS FURTHER FORWARD YOU SHOULD BE LEFT WITH THIS

FROM THE CORNERS I MEASURED 40mm THEN DREW A STRAIGHT LINE ACROSS AND CUT OUT, THIS LEFT I SMALL GAP AT THE FRONT OF THE INTERCOOLER WHICH LOOKED OK


THESE MARKS WILL BE YOUR REFERENCE POINTS FOR TRIMMING I CAN ONLY GIVE YOU MY MEASUREMENTS BUT YOU MAY HAVE TO ADJUST ACCORDING TO YOUR CAR

WHEN CUTTING YOUR BUMPER CUT SLIGHTLY LESS AS YOU CAN ALWAYS TRIM MORE BUT YOU CANT PUT BACK IF YOU GO TO FAR THESE MEASUREMENTS WERE HOW MY CAR WORKED OUT AND IS ONLY A GUIDE








MANAGED TO TRIM DOWN THE ORIGINAL GRILL AND REFIT BACK INTO THE BUMPER TO KEEP THE ORIGINAL LOOK I TRIMMED THE FRONT BACK TO THE CROSS BARS AND ON THE REAR CUT ABOUT 8mm FROM OUTER EDGE AT A ANGLE TO THE DOWN BARS THEN PLASTIC WELDED BACK IN IT COMES UP SLIGHTLY SHORT SO CUT THE LOWER BAR AT THE SIDES AND DROPPRD IT DOWN JUST NEEDS A BIT OF FINISHING BUT HAPPY WITH THE WAY IT LOOKS


TOOLS NEEDED

1,10mm SOCKET
2, PHILIP'S SCREWDRIVER
3, GRINDER/ HACKSAW
4,METAL FILE

TO REFIT THE FRONT FOG LIGHTS YOU MAY HAVE TO TRIM SOME OFF THE BOTTOM OF THE METAL BACK BRACKETS DON,T WORRY ABOUT TAKING THE LUGS OFF AS THE BOLTS THAT HOLD THE FOG LIGHTS WILL HOLD THE BACK PLATES IN PLACE


ONCE TRIMMED PLACE INTO BACK OF BUMPER AND BOLT THE FOG LIGHTS BACK IN USING THE THREE 10mm BOLTS NOT FORGETTING THAT THE TOP OUTER BOLT ALSO HOLDS THE INDICATOR LENS IN


ONCE FOGS ARE FITTED AND THE BUMPER ALL SECURED YOU CAN THEN REFIT THE HEADLIGHTS AND THE SIDE LIGHTS


NOW YOU HAVE COMPLETED FITTING THE FRONT MOUNT TO GET THE BEST OUT OF THE UPGRADE ITS RECOMMENDED TO HAVE THE CAR MAPPED TO SUIT

IF YOU HAVE FOUND THIS THREAD USEFUL PLEASE COMMENT OR RATE IT

KIPS

SOME PICS OF THE O/E DV ADAPTORS TO RUN WITH THE FRONT MOUNT
STI8 AND STI STIV4/5

THINK THESE ARE YEAR RELATED RATHER THAN MODEL RELATED
THIS IS THE LATER TYPE NEWAGE PICTURE 4 IS A CONVERSION SO THE DV CAN BE USED ON THE EARLY MY93 MODELS






THIS IS THE EARLY GC8 STI V4/5




IF YOU WANT DV CONVERSION OR ADAPTORS MADE CONTACT DAONE A MEMBER ON HERE OR PM ME AND ILL GIVE YOU CONTACT DETAILS AND YOU CAN DEAL DIRECT NO NEED FOR GROUP BUY ON THESE MADE TO ORDER SO ORDER EARLY

IF YOU REQUIRE ONE THEY WORK OUT £20 INC POST FOR EITHER TYPE OF DV CONVERTOR
SELLING FOR £25. ON EBAY SO SAVE A FIVER

the quality of the work is excellent when going to a front mount you may require one of these to run your std recerc dump valve

KIP

will add to this as I get more info on how to fit
will add pics of early type Sunday
IF YOU NEED ONE FOR THE EARLY PLASTIC DV YOU WILL NEED A REDUCER PIPE FROM SAMCO DEMON TWEEKS HAVE THESE
HAVING SOME ALLOY ADAPTERS MADE FOR THE EARLY PLASTIC TYPE DVS WILL POST PICS WHEN DONE

MIKALOR HOSE CLAMP UPGRADE

ITS WORTH THINKING ABOUT UPGRADING THE SUPPLIED JUBILEE CLIPS TO THE MIKALOR TYPE YOU CAN SEE THE DIFFERANCE AND LESS CHANCE OF BLOWING A PIPE OFF

Mikalor Supra Hoseclips...



THESE ARE THE SIZES NEEDED FOR THE UPGRADE

1 x 79-73
2 x 55-59
2 x 79-85
7 x 68-73



APEXI POWER INTAKE

WHEN FITTING THE FRONT MOUNT YOU WILL LOSE YOUR STD AIRBOX DUE TO INTERCOOLER PIPE RUNNIN THROUGH THE WING, SO YOU WILL NEED A CONE FILTER TRY AND AVOID THE OILED ONES AS THIS WILL UPSET YOUR MAF
THE APEXI IS A DRY TYPE AND IS ONLY AN EXAMPLE OF WHATS ABOUT




BELOW HEAT SHIELD BLANKET....................................THERMO WRAP




THERMO HEAT SHIELD FOR THE TURBO AND SOME HEAT WRAP FOR THE DOWN PIPE AND THE INTERCOOLER PIPE THAT RUNS OVER THE TURBO
IVE READ THAT UNDER BONNET HEAT IS ONE OF THE PROBLEMS WITH THE SCOOB SO MY INTENTION IS TO TRY AND CUT SOME OF THIS DOWN IVE ALREADY MADE A PLATE TO SEPARATE THE INDUCTION KIT BUT SOME REFLECTIVE HEAT SHIELD WILL MAKE THIS EVEN BETTER I CANT WRAP THE EXH MANIFOLD AS ITS STD AT THE MOMENT AND THE EXTRA HEAT WHEN WRAPPED DOES THE WELDS IN

silent running

Good stuff so far, keep it coming!

KIPS

STAGE 2 UPDATE WING REMOVAL
HAVE ADDED THIS TO FIRST THREAD SO ITS ALL TOGETHER
THIS IS FAIRLY EASY WITH MINIMUM TOOLS NEEDED THIS TOOK ABOUT AN HOUR WITH PHOTOS

SO GO ON HAVE A GO AND GET YOUR HANDS DIRTY

KIP

Puppetmaster

Bloody marvelous mate
Just what I was looking for !

Just about to facelift my car and also looking for a FMIC

KIPS

IM RUNNING THE GROUP BUY FOR FRONT MOUNTS HAVE A LOOK HERE

http://bbs.scoobynet.com/group-buys-...ic-kit-11.html

PLENTY OF INFO IVE SOURCED INCLUDING OE DV FITTING MOST QUESTIONS ANSWERD FOR YOU

WELCOME ONBOARD

KIP

911

Lots of pics, key to a good Project Thread
Excellent!

Graham

Slowboy Racing

Looking good, not sure you needed to take of the wing and the bumper suport bar. Take your time when cutting the bumper

gatecrasher3

You may find you can get away without taking the wing off. I managed when I did mine.

Fantastic guide though. I wish it was available when I was fitting my FMIC

KIPS

If a jobs worth doing its worth doing right I realise that the wing diddnt need to come off but this will make it easier cutting the hole neater (i hope)
Yer not looking forward to cutting the bumper but got me dremmel ready with new cutting blades
Im gonna try and squeez the original grill back in if possible

cheers KIP

KIPS